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PRESS
"I continued to eat until I had devoured every last bit of the blistered, chewy crust...This pizza was different, and got me thinking about why this seemingly innocuous dish engenders so much passion...[Silverton] turned a baker's eye on the crust, making super-wet dough that takes 36 hours to produce and results in that elusive chewy, crisp, puffy crust with little nooks and crannies you find in really great bread." "But in the wood oven at Pizzeria Mozza, Nancy Silverton has more or less reinvented the very idea of pizza, airy and burnt and risen around the rim, thin and crisp in the center, neither bready in the traditional Neapolitan manner nor wispy the way you find pizza in the best places in Tuscany. The crust is sweet and bitter, salty and chewy, circled by crunchy charred bubbles. Every pizza at Mozza is a unique marriage of flour, salt and hot-burning almond wood, stretched into irregular discs, as individually lovable as children. The crust is so good, in fact, that it may be at its best dressed with nothing more than a drizzle of good olive oil and a few grains of sea salt — though it's not sad to eat topped with burrata and vivid squash blossoms, taleggio and house-made sausage, lardo and rosemary. or pureed anchovies and fried egg. (The mandatory caveat applies here: Silverton is a family friend.) This isn't the pizza you used to eat back in Jersey, and that, perhaps, is the point." "We fell in love with the Coach Farm goat cheese, leek, green garlic and bacon pizza — with dynamite flavor and attractive looks." "Pizzeria Mozza isn't just a restaurant. It's an action film, a master class in the art of making pizza, a trip through Italy's wine regions and a magnet for a diverse crowd of hungry diners only Los Angeles could muster... All that, and great pizza, too? That's amore." |
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